Friday 27 April 2012

Drama at the Russian/Kazakhstan border


Wednesday night 25 April/ Thursday 26 April 

We have a good night's sleep, but are awoken by a knock on our cabin door from the carriage guard at 5.30 am, as the Russian border officials have just boarded the train. This happens just before we enter Kazakhstan, so we can only assume the Russian officials come on to make sure we leave the country when we said we would, as stated on our visa. The officer is a pleasant young man actually, and when he sees our British passports, he jokes with Reg about Chelsea drawing with Barcelona at football on Tuesday evening, ensuring Chelsea of a place in the European cup.

An hour later, we cross the border with Kazakhstan, and their officials get on the train to inspect our passports. The young official who looks at ours shouts out to his colleague along the corridor,|”English! English!” and hurries away with our passports. This seems ominous to me and Reg follows the border guard down the corridor in hot pursuit.

We quickly learn that the Swiss couple I mentioned in yesterday's blog have been ordered to leave the train! It's because they don't have a double-entry Kazakhstan visa – the visa they do have for entering Kazakhstan was for a later date. They are distraught, but there is nothing they can do. Their visas were arranged by a tour company, so they trusted to their so-called expertise. We are shocked. Monica and her husband have travelled 2 nights and a day for nothing. The young Russian man in the next carriage to ours, who speaks English, helps the Swiss couple by finding out the time of the next train back to Moscow, and gives them his mobile number in case they need translating help.

Fortunately, the border official hands back our passports – they are ok. I praise Reg for his astuteness and thorough research of the visa situation. Thank goodness he was so meticulous, not only about getting the double-entry visa, but getting the dates right too.

You need a double-entry visa because although we are not getting off the train before we enter Uzbekistan, we are travelling through Kazakhstan; our second entry visa is for when we do disembark in Kazakhstan later in our travels.

The train has been stopped for about 3 hours at the border. The customs officials had a brief look around and left. Eventually, at 9.30 am, the train pulls away and Monica and her husband, a forlorn sight alone on the platform, give a brief wave to the helpful young Russian. Apparently they may be able to fly to Uzbekistan from Moscow (thus not having to go through Kazakhstan territory) to continue their Silk Road journey. What a lot of wasted time, money and effort.

This incident shakes us up a bit and we are subdued for a while. We have breakfast, Reg eating bread and butter, ham, and one of the boiled eggs he bought at the station yesterday, He said it was just like having egg and bacon! I had 2 ginger biscuits and a banana.

How to have a wash? I have a brilliant idea. Cup-a-wash! I fill one of our trusty plastic cups (which we take everywhere with us), half with the trickle of cold water from the washbasin in the toilet cubicle, and half with boiling water. I lock our compartment door and have a strip wash, using 2 flannels squeezed out in the water in the mug, which is placed on one of our plastic plates, to catch the overflow. I feel a lot better – I can highly recommend this method when needs must. Reg washes later in the same way. Can't do much about the hair though – may try the dry shampoo tomorrow but I'm almost past caring about how I look – as long as I feel fresh!

I finish The Sealed Letter on my kindle – I thorough enjoyed it. I've started another of my kindle books, The Help. Rose thought I'd enjoy this book. It's good so far. I've also started on my Unit 13 assignment for my local preacher's course. I'm at the stage where there's lots in my head, a brief outline on paper, but it's all a bit muddled. I'll do some more tomorrow.

Keeping the computer and phones charged up is a bit difficult, as there's only one socket in the corridor fairly near but not within watching distance of our compartment door, and other people (mainly the Russians next door) need it for their computer and phones too. However, disappointingly, I haven't had a mobile signal all day, nor has Reg. We're in remote country, with trees giving way to “the steppes”, which is green scrubland, gradually turning into more desert country. There are village communities now and again with white, and a few blue, single story houses. Not much sign of arable agriculture – mostly cattle, horses, and quite a few camels.

As dusk falls we see electric lights twinkling from the houses, and children playing outside. There are landline telephone cables, but seemingly no mobile phone masts. Reg and I have our evening meal of bread and butter and cup-a-soup (having had sandwiches for lunch – the ham and cheese stayed fairly cool in the draught of air in the floor). All this has been interspersed with mini Mars and Snickers and numerous cups of tea throughout the day.

We're near the Aral sea, and at the next station the 2 young Russians disembark. Reg is enjoying himself following our journey on a sat-nav app he's previously downloaded onto his mobile phone.

After the alarming start to the day, the rest of the time has passed quickly and pleasantly. I'm enjoying recording our experiences in the blog, even though I can't publish it until we get the internet again.

Soon be time for bed - our 3rd night on the train.. One more night and day to go – we arrive in Tashkent tomorrow evening – it's supposed to be at 6.25 pm, but Reg thinks in view of the delay this morning, it'll be later. So far I'm still on the edge of my comfort zone …...! Reg says he thinks I'm well within my comfort zone as I look really happy!

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