Monday 16 April 2012

On the train: Wroclaw (Poland) to Lvov (Ukraine)


Sunday 15 April

We've been travelling for 11 hours. We've been stopped for some time here, at the Ukranian border.

Reg is interested in all things technical and mechanical and has no hesitation in going to have a look to find out what's happening. He gets involved in a curious non-verbal conversation with the train guard, involving exaggerated gesticular movements of the arms. Reg discovers that they are hoisting up the train in order to change the wheels, so that they will fit the different gauge of the Ukranian rail system. It would seem that they have to do this every time they come into the Ukraine from Poland and when they go back!

It's been a long day, but we have our own private “cabin”, with 2 bunk beds on one side, clean sheets & pillows (with starched white pillowcases) & blankets. The top bunk is quite high, giving ample room for moving about below & getting comfortable on the bottom bunk, which doubles as the train seat.

The cabin is lovely and warm and Reg reports, on returning from an earlier mission to see how everything works, that the heating works through the guard piling coal into a boiler at the end of the carriage. There is a separate boiler for each carriage.

We save our thermos flask for lunchtime. The lovely Agnes at the Flower Power hostel in Wroclaw packed us plenty of food for the journey; 6 baguette rolls, 3 with Polish ham and and 3 with camembert, all with salad, 4 hard boiled eggs, 4 Polish sausages (Kabanosy), and 2 bananas. Plus we have crisps, and a few Aldi Hobnobs and gingernuts left to keep us going.

The scenery speeds by (though this isn't actually a very fast train). Out of the window we see many contrasts; crop-planted countryside; suburbs with quite wealthy-looking houses, interspersed with towns containing forlorn grey tenement flats; dilapidated buildings; expanses of brightly coloured graffitti; pockets of scattered litter; and evidence of new building work, include a new motorway.

Reg and I take it in turns to have a nap on the lower bunk, putting our feet on the lap of the other one, who sits by the window. At about 2 o'clock the guard brings us a lovely cup of tea! Bliss! After we've had the rest of our rolls at about 6 pm, Reg plucks up courage and asks the guard to fill up our thermos flask, so that we can have another cuppa. (Well done, Reggie).

When we boarded the train, there were 4 complimentary bottles of water in our cabin, plus 2 croissants, 2 soaps, and 2 small towels (not sure if we're meant to keep these or not, but we can't take the extra weight of anything we don't need, in any case). The irony is, although the toilet at the end of the corridor does flush (we think to the rails below) the water tap isn't working – so the soap & towels aren't much use! Thank goodness for antiseptic handwash. But see note at end of blog!

We're still at the border, where we've been stopped for about an hour and a half. 2 separate customs offficers have checked our passports.
It hasn't been too bad on the train for this length of time. I've had a nap, done a bit of studying, finished Wild Swans, and started reading The Sealed Letter by Emma Donoghue on my kindle! Yey!!

From now on texts will be 40p as we're leaving the EU where they are 10p each. Reg has a sim-free phone and will buy a local simcard when we get to Lvov, so that it will be cheaper to contact home.

We're still stationary and it's 8.35pm Ukranian time ( 7.35pm Polish time).

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